Cantarina is a third-generation family winery near Villafranca del Bierzo, quietly buying back century-old vineyard parcels that had been sold off to bigger producers and vinifying each one separately with wild yeasts and minimal intervention. Their two La Cabeza de Perro wines - a floral, stone-fruit white from 1903-planted Palomino vines and a bright, crunchy Mencía red - are completely new to Reserve Wines this summer, and both are exactly the kind of thing Bierzo does best: pure, fresh and unmistakably of their place.