San Polino, Brunello di Montalcino "Helichrysum" 2017
There is a small nirvana just northwest of Montalcino where Luigi Fabbro and Kaita Naussbaum founded San Polino nearly 30 years ago. The couple set out to create wines that are complete reflections of the biodiversity of the terroir. The estate is a tiny 4 hectares, farmed organically and biodynamically by this couple who pour all of their heart and energy into these sublime wines.
The 'Helichrysum' vineyards are up at 450m above sea level on south facing slopes, on soils never touched by chemicals. Fertilised with estate managed green composts and sprayed with microbes created from composts and forest floor material. all the work in the vineyard is done by hand and the attention to detail is mind blowing.
Harvest usually happens in early October, 3 days of wild yeast fermentation in oak barrels is followed by 45 days maceration on the skins to extract colour and tannins. Malolactic fermentation then takes place before being moved to small French oak barrels for 5 months with their fine lees adding to the spice and creamy texture. Then the wine is moved into larger Slovakian barrels for 3 years.
Dark ruby, fruity and full with blackcurrant, violet, rose petal, spices and an earthiness. It's full bodied and dry, with a rich creamy texture, structured ripe tannins and a long persistent finish.