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Grape Gossip - Krug is in the Air

There are only a few conclusions in international wine-writing that seem to be (almost) unanimously agreed upon: 2005 really is (not) the vintage of the century in Bordeaux; South America will be producing more and more of finest wines in the world in the next century; climate change is a threat to Europe's fragile terroirs; and Krug Grande Cuvée is the most illustrious non-vintage Champagne there is. Both in awe and a little apprehensive of a wine with such a reputation, I thought it best to taste it for myself so that I could advise customers on what it is like (a great excuse I know - plus it was the end of my January exams period). Making an interesting meal to go with it was an obvious way in which I could learn more about matching fine wine and food and an easy way to add my own twist to it. I wanted to make the dinner a bit quirky, a bit different, and the most anti-establishment I can manage in my older years (twenty seems old to someone who is about twelve at heart). Whoever thought research was boring, eh?

My meal was all planned and my (very) willing friends ready with glasses and plates.

Firstly we tasted the Krug by itself. I got my friends who are not used to making wine notes to throw around some adjectives for me. First off, the colour - 'light golden', 'lemony gold with a cream wash over' and 'a silvery tone of yellow' were all offered. It was still very bright for a wine that is aged for many years before release. The same could be said for the nose which was still delightfully fresh and floral with oodles of fruit and a dash of cream. One the palate, Krug did not disappoint. Though not as big as some critics would say (Oz Clarke says he has noticed a refinement to the style in recent years) it is full-bodied, rich and intense with plenty of the white flesh of various ripe fruits. The finish was creamier, with nuances of nuts, honey and caramel. One thing I noticed when I continued to drink the wine was its seamlessness. Often when I drink Champagne I find flaws after the bottle's been open a while - it might taste too citric or dry or the bubbles might wear off etc. but Krug does indeed cover every base.

The current release of Krug Grande Cuvée is made from 47 wines from 10 different vintages, so you'd expect a blockbuster of monster proportions that covers every base. Like other giants such as the Spanish legend Vega Sicilia, Krug is massively concerned with the marketing side of wine making, being careful to produce a mythical history and an ethereal future for the winery that will keep these luxury brands at the forefront of the collective oenological consciousness.

After tasting, we moved to the food pairings. After searching online for interesting food matches, I started the meal with lightly salted potato chips (or crisps to you and I). From what I could find on the internet, most people agree that Krug loves salt, and our makeshift entrée was no exception. The soft oiliness of the crisps and touches of salt flirted with the acidity of the Champagne. One phrase that kept coming to mind was 'Krug sandwich'. Like the soft bread of a really beautiful gourmet sandwich, the crisps provided an excellent platform on which the Krug could shine, creating a seasoning of mild spice and soft sweetness reminiscent of the kind of flavour juxtaposition you find in sweet potato - a sweet/savoury ensemble. This interplay of different flavours, so often unmixed and segregated in cuisine, was my inspiration for the rest of the meal. This fine Champagne has both sweet and savoury flavours - why should anyone have to choose between the two?

Krug is unique in Champagne in terms of its focus on its non-vintage Cuvée. It is described on its website as the 'ultimate expression' of the Krug style thanks to the process of blending, known as assemblage. It is hoped that the amount of different wines that make up the final blend all add some flavours and complexity. Of course, Vintage Champagne and Single Vineyard expressions of fizz do not have this advantage, which is why Remi Krug & Co put so much emphasis on the Grande Cuvée. Though Krug does of course produce immensely fine Vintage, Blanc de Blanc Clos du Mesnil (only Chardonnay) and the rarest Single Vineyard Blanc De Noir Clos d'Ambonnay (either Pinot Meunier or Noir or both, in this instance just Noir), the House's focus on its NV is somewhat enlightening and it is reassuring that an often under-appreciated and neglected release is here championed by the Krug winemakers of the 5th and 6th generation. But Krug, they tell us, is not just a wine, it is an experience. Krug Rooms can be found in the world's finest hotels, you can buy Krug trunks in which to store and serve it, and there is my personal favourite, 'Krug Is In The Air', a balloon ride preceded by a three course meal cooked by Marc Bretillot, 'food designer extraordinaire' All the while guests indulge in not the Vintage or other finer Krugs, but the esteemed Grande Cuvée. All of this just demonstrates that Krug is a statement as much as anything. At £120, it is not supposed to be four times better than Jacquesson, Moët or Lanson NV - you are paying for the Krug name, Krug history and Krug experience. But what of the wine you ask? And more importantly, what of the wine to someone whose only experience of Krug will be on the ground, not 'in the air' and not in a room dedicated to Krug?

For my main course, I cooked a mild Indian Curry with sweetish vegetables - carrots, potatoes, baby corn and sweet peppers. The result was very intriguing - it was like eating two meals with two wines at once. On the one hand I was eating something comparable to a stir-fry with hints of sweetness in the veg and an aromatic off-dry white like a Gewürztraminer complementing it. On the other I was eating a dense, darker, more savoury curry with a dry, acidic, citric and mega-fresh wine cutting straight through the grease of the sauce. The never-ending, super fine bubbles of Krug ceaselessly clean your palate and each taste is like your first.

I'm sure whoever coined the term 'Krug Is In The Air' had no idea that most people will immediately think of the cheesy song and not the amorous phrase. My friends and I thought of a few of our own: 'All You Need Is Krug', 'Do You Believe In Life After Krug?' and 'I Just Can't Get Enough (Krug)'. Pass me the Champagne bucket, I think I'm gonna Krug!

Now the dessert I chose may sound a bit crazy, but is actually a relatively common food pairing for Champagne, particularly a creamier Blanc de Blanc (which Krug is not). It is… popcorn (SHOCK HORROR!) Although not a Blanc de Blanc, Krug does have a hint of toastiness and butter to it. I was eagerly anticipating mixing my 50p snack with my £120 wine - I had made the popcorn earlier, and continuing in a similar vein, added both sweet and savoury seasonings: a touch of salt, a touch of sugar, paprika, cinnamon and honey and butter melted together before being drizzled onto the popcorn after being popped. Apart from a slight clash of texture (I had made the popcorn a few hours previous and it was beginning to become a bit cardboardy) the match was superb, a similar result to the main course with the paradoxical flavour profiles combining to beg the question: why don't I do stuff like this more often?

I was thrilled with my experiment and more importantly with the fact I actually set my mind to it and got on with it. The best feedback I got from one of my (very happy) friends was 'it is just really nice', a statement which is pretty difficult to disagree with. My favourite description of Krug Grande Cuvée comes from one of the winemakers, describing it as a 'symphony, a composition where all the instruments play together in total harmony'.

Drinking Krug for me feels like I'm sat at the back of a fancy concert hall, alone, in one of those advance seats that cost a tenth of those in the boxes, watching this magnificent orchestra. I sit there loudly stuffing my face with popcorn. It's the best damn seat in the house.

Drinking Krug for me feels like I'm sat at the back of a fancy concert hall, alone, in one of those advance seats that cost a tenth of those in the boxes, watching this magnificent orchestra. I sit there loudly stuffing my face with popcorn. It's the best damn seat in the house.

Now you've read that, you're going to HAVE to CLICK HERE TO BUY KRUG!