Grape Gossip - Biodynamics, Mumbo Jumbo or the Way of the Future?

In an age of increasing environmental awareness it is only natural that we question conventional viticulture. Traditional methods that have been heavily reliant on industrially synthesized chemicals are coming under scrutiny and many growers are considering alternative vineyard regimes

Biodynamics is one of these alternatives; some would argue the most extreme alternative approach to vineyard management. It stems from the theories of Rudolph Steiner and it 'emphasizes the health and balance of the soil, as do many other organic viticulture philosophies, but crucially views the soil as an integral part of the symbiosis between planet, air, and cosmos' One of our producers, Niki Moser, who makes the most beautiful Austrian wines , has been a follower of this regime since 2000, and describes it as follows 'Biodynamic viticulture is a holistic way which combines the environment and the soil strongly. The aim is not only to protect the plants against fungal diseases and pests but to help build up strength and health' He goes on to mention balance, the biodynamic vintner acting as the mediator between the environment, cosmic influences and his vines. Although sulphur and copper are permitted, conventional agrochemicals and fertilizers are forbidden. Preparations include dung compost for the soil, horn dung for the roots and horn silica buried in cow horns over the summer. Many biodynamic treatments are carried out in accordance with lunar phases or positions and astrological influences also play a key role.

So what's so good about it..?
The main benefits of this system are not dissimilar to those of an organic system, reduction of demand for artificial chemical, fertilizers etc, the nature of the regime forces a viticulturalist to be more involved with what happens in the vineyard both physically and mentally which can only improve the end product. Supporters of biodynamics also believe that their vineyards are healthier, the plants in them stronger and more capable of fighting off disease on their own. Although it may be more difficult to implement this regime in certain vineyard sites, Moser believes it could be adopted anywhere.

And the negatives?
Critics, however, are quick to refute the more spiritual elements of this regime claiming that such improvement in vineyard strength would have been achieved in normal organic farming and comparative studies of biodynamic and organic farming methods have indicated there are no differences in soil quality, yield per vine or cluster and berry weight. The labour costs involved can be considerably higher especially more if sites are problematic i.e. steep terraces, although as viticulturalists gain experience this will fall into line with conventional costs.

And the wider picture..
Aside from the actual differences in the vineyard, this system inevitably has a commercial impact on the wine both in terms of marketing and appeal of the finished product. Most wineries are essentially commercial ventures, the end goal being to sell their wine and make the winery a viable operation. More sustainable winegrowing practices, particularly biodynamic regimes, allow nature to work as it wishes resulting in lower yields and thus, to some degree, resolving the current problems of overproduction in the global wine market. It encourages the production of more terroir driven wines that are more in line with a 'natural' product. As we become more environmentally and socially aware I believe we will place increasing importance on products that are free from toxins and respect the environment. Therefore, from a marketing perspective, there is an argument that promotion of organic or biodynamic practices may increase the product appeal and increasingly influence buying decisions. Niki Moser talks about the difference in his wines 'The wines have more personality and more minerality….no more candy aromas, more elegance' all in all a better, higher quality wine although he goes on to highlight that they evolve more slowly which can be difficult in the immediate nature of the wine markets today.

Talking to producers such as Vanya Cullen (Margaret River) and Niki who are both firm believers of biodynamics I am completely smitten and find them truly inspirational (and their vineyards look fabulous). At the same time many excellent viticulturalists follow a number of the practical aspects of this regime but are reluctant to subscribe to it entirely.

Chris and I have had lengthy debates about this subject but what do you think? Can you tell the difference? Does this issue influence your wine buying? Have your say here sales@reservewines.co.uk